AUTO BODY REPAIR TECHNOLOGY 4TH EDITION

My Agfa Isolette III
Produced c1960 Agfa Germany
Film type 120
Picture size 6x6
Lens coated Apotar (3 element Apochromatic Anastigmat) 85mm f4.5
Shutter Prontor-S
Shutter speeds B, 1, 2, 5, 10, 25, 50, 100, 300 and switch for T
Viewfinder Rangefinder
Exposure meter none

The Isolette III has an uncoupled rangefinder. There is a small dial on the top of the camera that you turn while peering through the rangefinder window. When the image is in focus, you read the distance from the dial and then set the lens to that same distance.
Next, set your aperture and shutter speed, tension the Pronto and press the shutter release to take your photo.
The Apotar is an average lens -- a bit better than most triplets and like most triplets get better when stopped down to f/8 or f/11.
The exterior of the camera is in lovely condition. However, there is a small repair to the bellows, which isn't unusual with the Agfa folders. The most common problems with many of the Agfa cameras are the use of the plastic bellows, which developed pinholes in the corners, and hardened lubricant in the helicals and other gears that made the lens often very difficult or impossible to turn.
The textured body covering on the Isolette III is very attractive and makes the camera easy to hold.
The back has a small sliding door that shows the frame number that is printed on the film's paper backing. Remember to close the door after advancing the film. Next to the film advance knob and just ahead of the shutter release is a small hole in the top plate. Under that is an indicator that tells the photographer if the film has been advanced. If it shows red, the film must be wound on. If it's clear, you're clear to shoot. This is opposite the Zeiss Ikon cameras, so I generally don't put both in the bag for a day of shooting.
Agfa did a nice job with the Isolette III. It's rounded shoulders and mostly symmetrical top plate are quite attractive. Once serviced, the Isolette III is a good camera to use and to show off to others.

*important.. It's not expensive!!! ... NOT more than 40 euros on ebay :P

This shot was ISO 200 with a 1 second exposure. I had to do some processing to make them all show so well. But there are 16 bad pixels here, not counting the light leak in the left corner. I marked the most annoying red one near the middle with a larger box. That is the only one I have ever cloned out in my photos. Luckily though, it seems to have gone away. The rest aren't noticeable with shorter exposures and ISO that I normally shoot at.

I suggest don't go looking for bad pixels since everyone will probably find at least a few and be disappointed. All digital cameras have them or develop them over time. There are different types of bad pixels, hot pixels and dead pixels. Hot pixels may not always show up depending on temperature, exposure length, and ISO. Some come out in color, some white, and I think some can be black. And some only show up in longer exposures. Higher ISOs can bring them out too.

Unless they are right in the middle and/or visible in all your shots, they aren't a big problem. They won't affect prints and aren't visible on screen unless you view at greater than 100%.

Unless you have a lot of bad pixels, Canon's repair solution is probably to have the camera remap the dead pixels. Some cameras can be programmed to ignore the bad ones in creating the photo. Some DSLRs have that function built in. That was one of the first things I did when I got my Sony A350 because even brand new it had a few bad ones. (Canon replaced my sensor instead of remapping so I don't know if that is possible with the S5)

If they are annoying you and especially if you have any other problems with your camera, I would send it in. But check whether bad pixels are covered under warranty. My one year warranty is about up so mine will be making the trip to Canon soon. My orientation sensor has been strange since I first got it, but I never wanted to be without it. And it could certainly use a cleaning. Now that I have the SLR I can stand to be without it for a while.